A REVIEW OF PIZZA RESTAURANT

The perpetually packed Mulberry Road place has some major pizza cred: It was founded by third-era pizza maker Angelo “AJ” Pappalardo, who died at age forty in 2015, and his father, Joe Pappalardo of Joe & Pat’s in Staten Island. The crisp, thin-crust pies contain a standout vodka-sauced iteration, and so are supplemented by a slew of typical